Out of the comfort zone

If you look at the map of Bologna, you’ll see that the city has a well-defined center, which is basically a big circle. Inside this circle, there’s what is called the “historic center” (i.e. the oldest part of the city, where all the main monuments are located.) At a first sight, the center looks huge, but the truth is that it’s possible to walk all over it on foot.

Outside the boundaries of that picture, however, the city keeps expanding itself, forming what today is the seventh most populated city in Italy.

This is the official map of Bologna, presented by BolognaWecome

As I already mentioned here, I’m very lucky to live right in the center of the center – indeed where the buzz is – and either for comfort or laziness, I hardly ever leave the confines of this zone.

And, of course, there are innumerous good restaurants around here (actually, almost every one I mentioned so far), but it’s always a good surprise to literally get out of our comfort zones to discover new and exciting places.

A couple of weeks ago I had the pleasure to find a well-known restaurant in town, but to which I had never been because it was “far away” from home (I get embarrassed to say that, considering that I used to live in Sao Paulo, one of the biggest cities of the world…but how things can change!)

Well, I’m talking about the excellent Al Cambio (Via Stalingrado, 150).

“Spatola” fish with beans cream and “puntarelle”

Why I loved so much that place? Simply because there a 100% Bolognese chef (Massimiliano “Max” Poggi) decided to maintain the necessary respect for the tradition, without losing the curiosity to invent, innovate and play with some of the dogmas of the city’s traditional menu. And don’t get me wrong; this is REALLY rare when it comes to Bologna.

Spaghetti with fresh sardines (“alici”), its oil (“colatura di alici”), dried tomatoes and parsley sauce

The best choice, for sure, is to leave Max lead you inside of his world – of course I’m talking about the degustation menu, which can be with 3, 5 or 7 dishes and you can choose between meat, fish or “Bolognese tradition”.

Cod fish cream (“baccalà mantecato”) with pepper sponge and tomato sauce

We have chosen the second alternative and oh my how lovely was it!

Scampi wrapped in a crunchy bread with cauliflower cream

Here are some of the stars of our 5 dishes (plus dessert!) with which the chef has amazed us.

Semifreddo with nuts and dried fruits, served with a raspberry sauce

Therefore, with this post I would like to say basically two things: the first one is that Bologna is not restricted to its historic center and if you really want to eat well, it’s worth to look for places that are a little bit far away. The second is that even in a city that takes its traditional dishes so seriously – I would say even too seriously – it is possible to dare without leaving behind the roots and the history of the place. In this case, if the chef is bravo (i.e. damn good) the sky is the limit – exactly like the city itself

Bistecca alla fiorentina – Part II

The best bistecca alla fiorentina in town

Now that you’re already experts and know everything about it, I feel it is my duty to recommend a place, in Florence, where in my opinion the bistecca alla fiorentina reaches its top: the Buca Lapi.

Located in a little street that crosses the fancy Via de’ Tornabuoni (where all the top brand stores are) and right beside Cantinetta Antinori’s little window, the Buca Lapi is a temple of the Florentine cuisine. In fact, it is the oldest restaurant in town, having opened its doors in 1880, in the basement of Palazzo Antinori.

Behind the scenes: the open kitchen where all the action takes place

The current owner, Luciano Ghinassi, is always around, walking between the room and the kitchen (which is an open kitchen and the lucky customers that get a table at the first room can closely follow what happens inside). Mr. Ghinassi also constantly checks if the glasses of wine are full, if the meat is perfectly cooked and so on.

By the way, the service there is excellent. The waiters, speaking a very good English, are always very considerate and solicitous and for those who order the fiorentina, they even give precise instruction on how to face that lovely beast (in fact, it is allowed and recommended to such the bone at the end!).

It is also the owner who prepares the great desserts of the house, like this beautiful creme caramel and, in the photo on the back, a “magic” chocolate pie, which contains no lactose, no gluten and no sugar…! I honestly have no idea how he does it, but I can assure you that is delicious!

Cream Caramel and the “magic” chocolate pie

And before talking about the “million dollar baby” of the house, a little parenthesis: the restaurant is not recommended only for those who want to eat the famous steak. There, everyday, the clients may taste excellent Tuscan specials, such as the crostini caldi (warm bread with a yummy topping). This one is made with ricotta and sausage and was a flavour bomb:

Crostini caldi con ricotta e salsiccia

The ribollita (which is a sort of grains and vegetables soup thickened with bread), great fresh pastas and one of the best dishes I had the pleasure to eat in this year of 2015: the cinghiale con polenta (a wild boar stew, slowly cooked and served with polenta):

Cinghiale con polenta

Getting back to her, the bistecca alla fiorentina, as I said in the last post, its quality depends basically on the product (i.e. the meat) and the cooking method. Well, in this place, the meat (“chianina” type) comes necessarily from local producers picked by hand. As for the actual cooking, suffice to say that the Buca Lapi is still one of the few places in the Center of Florence that have an actual charcoal grill – as the tradition commands. Before being served, the steak receives a round of a great extra-virgin Tuscan olive oil and… that’s it.

As they say here in Italy: “è la morte sua” (something like: “it’s the best way someone could possibly imagine”).

Tender, juicy and full of flavours